Morgan’s Barbecue. 267 Flatbush Ave. Brooklyn. NYC

We had great lean and fatty brisket here, a hearty Tuscan kale Caesar salad, and cold, unfriendly service. Morgan’s tries to be slightly more upmarket than Hill Country and Fletcher’s, especially as you order everything from servers and nothing from the counter, but it really isn’t that inviting. We loved the ribs and sides, the Texas red chili was rich and hearty and the pork links were a heavy option after all the cow that had been consumed. We’ll be back, sitting outside on the patio and expecting better service.

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Bolivian Llama Party. Night Bazaar, 165 Banker St. Brooklyn. NYC

This must be the best street food stall in the city; never have I felt such exhilaration accompanying each bite of their spicy, complex creations. The beef brisket cholas (BBQ sandwiches, $10, or $5 for a smaller cholita) rubbed with rocoto and cracked black pepper were wonderfully rich and juicy, and the cliza salteƱa – oyster mushrooms and quinoa in the Bolivian pasty pie (just don’t say empanada) – was served with a wickedly sticky salsa. Papitas (fries, $7) come in cones, and the Parmesan-garlic ‘super frites’ we got with a cilantro dipping sauce were relatively cooling after the wild peppery excess of the sandwiches. Staff are friendly and hard-working, and don’t forget to pick up a ‘Fuck Empanadas’ badge to wear with pride.

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