There were premonitions of a very similar restaurant in London before I entered The Lobster Club on a Tuesday night recently, and I was right; in decor, service and Japanese-inspired menu, this was just like Sexy Fish. It is also frightfully expensive and ultimately a little disappointing.
Major Food Group’s new venture in the Seagram’s building (under where the Four Seasons restaurant used to be and those red-black Rothko murals were meant to hang) has no soup, tofu or noodles, but plenty of Asian fusion and crudo fish dishes. The Wok Lobster was a sweet-chilli delight and the Yuzu Black Bass was light and citrusy, with no flourishes. The Curry Chicken Wings, however, were curry powder-coated and lacking any other flavor, almost like a British coronation chicken salad. The octopus was only saved by its herby lemon cream sauce that we eventually used to dip other items into. The Ume Rice is delicious, filled with fragrant notes and fluffy in texture; if only there was more of it.
Dessert was recommended to us as the diners’ favorite: soft, black-sugar Okinawa cake which was basically a sticky toffee pudding of which we had to get a second serving.
The wine list is extensive and the sommelier we had recommended a sensational Burgundy; however, service is generally unremarkable (at times nonexistent) and the lurid furni colors, flashy clientele and Richard Prince paintings may not cater to everyone’s tastes. There are other Japanese-fusion joints with far better food, so spend your money at Zuma instead.
Subway: Lexington Ave/53rd St.