Moharaj. Calle Ave MarĂ­a, 26. Madrid

This was my first ‘curry house’ in Madrid from my very first week in the city, and it’ll probably be my last, so familiar and comforting are its flavours. I call it a ‘curry house’ rather than an Indian restaurant, of course, as it resembles the neighbourhood lager’n’vindaloo mainstay of middle Britain. As anyone who has had curry in the UK knows, it is in a league of its own, replicating flavours from the Punjab and Delhi regions, whilst making no pretensions to be court cuisine from the palaces of Hyderabad with their delicate flavours and aromatic touches, all the rage now in the smarter Desi-owned eateries of London. This is curry for weekend nights, not business lunches, and very few items on the menu are served dry. Masala sauces are supposed to be mopped up with fluffy naans and pilau rices, and chased with Cobra beers or one of a surprisingly impressive selection of wines, including Sula Vineyards (Nashik’s famous homegrown plonk).

Hearty recommendations are the Lamb Madras and Rogan Josh, Chicken Dhansak and Channa Masala.

They do not, unfortunately, serve any black dhaal unless advance notice is given.

Paxaran and hierba buena chupitos are served at the end of a meal. That usually prolongs the goodbyes.

The terraza is comfortable to sit on for about eight months of the year. I come here every week. We bring a big group. Not much more need be said.

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