Manish Mehrotra’s Gotham outpost of his New Delhi fine dining establishment had opened about a year before we finally made our way there, and we really did hold out for a special occasion; no restaurant has been quite worth the wait like this place. Superlatives abound on this blog at times but they are completely deserved here: this is the best Indian food I have ever eaten in my life.
The dining space and bar area is merely comfortable, clean and uncluttered but unremarkable. However, the food is punchy, colorful and incredibly delicious. Three courses for $75 or four for $90 means that you’ll be getting small plated morsels of delight, and the $10 supplement for the ghee lamb is well worth it. It all adds up incrementally and we left feeling very full – I couldn’t imagine drinking a beer with such rich food. The Bandit Queen (a smoky agave cocktail) suited me well, and their mocktails are also layered and interesting.
We started with the messiest: butter-pepper-garlic crab claws, which yielded a surprising amount of meat; a mathri trio: smoked eggplant bharta with duck and chicken khurchan served in paper cones supposed to resemble Hindi newspaper wraps; there was a mid-course too, for which we had soy keema with a raw quail egg on top to mix in – sensational flavors and a texture that you’d swear was real lamb and not a simulacrum. Tiny butter pao rolls are cutely speared into the clay lid to dip into the pot of pure ecstasy. The sweet pickle ribs verged on the right side of Indo-Chinese and the pork chilli fry wasn’t so remarkable with all the stars on the table, especially when the ghee-roasted lamb arrived with roomali rotis. Pumpkin cheddar kulchas were certainly good, but we’ll be having the pastrami ones next time (inspired by Mehrotra’s visit to Katz’s Deli). We didn’t have desserts, but they served some dry sweets which were fine.
Service was attentive and the waitsplaining that other writers have complained about was non-existent; they may’ve taken the criticism to heart. This is a special place and what it lacks in atmosphere, it makes up for with impressive haute cuisine.
57th St (F,N,Q,R,W)
It wasn’t very busy on the last Friday night of last year, but this bar doesn’t really get going until midnight. Food is average – the house burger is a solid bet for only $10 – but the cocktails are excellent refreshing concoctions, tailored to your preferences. Service really puts this bar above most others in Williamsburg.
Bedford Ave (L)
2015 saw the closure of Donatella Arpaia’s Prova in Chelsea, but this Prova Pizzabar is more popular for its counter selling pizza by the slice, far quicker than getting a Shake Shack burger a few yards away. The dining space is small, but insulated from the bustle of the Grand Central; there is also a bar space which works well in the small setting. The classic eggplant Parmesan is excellent – hearty and belly-warning; however, the Tartufata with truffle cream, Porcini Mushrooms, Mozzarella and Speck ($8 slice, $42 pie) might be NYC’s best white pie after Juliana’s No.1, but such a different beast: a bready crust with real bite. This is apparently Detroit-style, and it pulls off slices but definitely not for that price. A small selection of wine and beers is available and service is below-average but the atmosphere is a little better than you’d expect from a restaurant – other than the Oyster bar – in a terminus station.
Chef Floyd Cardoz is remembered in the city for the New Indian cuisine he brought in at Tabla, which he closed in 2010. This new venture explores his own heritage – Goan food, with an emphasis on bread – especially the ‘pao’ or bread roll. Wada Pao or Pao Bhaji are popular street-food choices that resemble Sloppy Joes or Veg burgers, but there was nothing like that on the menu when we went. Instead, we ate delicately textured fish and vegetable dishes in the 72-seat restaurant on a busy Sunday afternoon, and were wholly unimpressed by the flavors: Buratta with Sea Island Peas ‘Ma Ki Dal’ ($17) was the blandest lentil soup I’ve ever encountered, though the cheese is a fascinating addition to it. Shishito Pakoras ($14) fried in a chickpea batter, were peppier and perfectly crispy. Kerala Style Banana Leaf Skate ($23) was the star of the show, but Upma Polenta with wild mushrooms and peas is also a creamily tasty mix of everything that’s good about vegetarian fare.
Service is great, the space is wonderfully relaxed with privacy in various corners, and the drinks choices are extensive. The Rosemary naan, subtly flavored, comes recommended, but the idea of paying extra for chutneys still annoys me.
If I came here again I’d leave the friends with restrictive diets behind and get some of the tempting meat dishes: pork-rib vindaloo, goat roast, lamb roganjosh. Or maybe just not order dishes family-style. I’m sure there’s great flavorful spicy food to be had at Paowalla, but on our recent trip we were expensively disappointed.
Subway: Spring St (J)
The slices here are breathtakingly fresh, and it may have had something to do with my state of inebriation but I feel that it’s no exaggeration to crown this the king of all late-night pizza joints. The White Pesto (Parmigiano Reggiano and pesto sauce – no marinara sauce) is good to start with, while the Tuscany Chicken (with bacon, ranch, mozzarella and parsley) is a next step in the right direction. Spicy, Buffalo, Mushroom and Sausage varieties are all on offer, service is friendly and there’s some basic seating upstairs. Slices are $3-4 each and soft drinks are available in the fridge – it’s that simple. The walls are covered with pics of Baldwins, Sarandons and Pinkett-Smiths, so you’re in good company.
Subway: Delancey St (F), Essex St (M,J,Z)
We had great lean and fatty brisket here, a hearty Tuscan kale Caesar salad, and cold, unfriendly service. Morgan’s tries to be slightly more upmarket than Hill Country and Fletcher’s, especially as you order everything from servers and nothing from the counter, but it really isn’t that inviting. We loved the ribs and sides, the Texas red chili was rich and hearty and the pork links were a heavy option after all the cow that had been consumed. We’ll be back, sitting outside on the patio and expecting better service.
We were brought here by an Istanbullu homesick for his mother’s food, and over the course of a three-hour meal we felt that he was mostly satisfied with the dishes he ordered; we were thrilled by all of it, of course. Big groups get to try almost everything, and the arnavut cigeri (fried calf’s liver) is something I would never have ordered for a smaller table; it was a great choice for a big group to share, as 3-4 pieces of deep-fried, spongy cubes of liver ($10) constitute the limit for most people. The mixed meze platter ($20) was well-balanced with light babaghanoush and hummus, while the sigara boregi (cigar rolls filled with cheese and parsley, $7) were perfect addictive comfort food. Kalamarizgara (grilled calamari, $11) are a must, though the mucver (zucchini pancakes) were nothing special at all.
All the meat and fish we had was of the finest quality, well marinated and seasoned. Special mention must go to the salmon scaloppini ($19) cooked in garlic wine sauce and sun dried tomatoes, and the kuzu bacagi (lamb shank, $20) which is one of the restaurant’s specialities.
Turkish wines are served, great baklava is available and the atmosphere is pleasantly higher-end. But of course none of this was as good as our Turkish friend’s mother’s cooking – of course not.